TUSK LITHIUM PRO
January 22, 2022
I just purchased the Tusk Lithium Pro TLFP-9R Battery for my 2012 Suzuki DR650 ($89.99 from Rocky Mountain ATV). With 50 years of riding and wrenching under my belt, surprisingly, the Tusk is literally my very first lithium-type battery purchase. My research and selection process was actually somewhat of a learning experience; still not 100% sure I made the right decision.
Other batteries on my short-list were the Sealed Lead-Acid Yuasa OE YTXP-BS (the OE battery, about $70) and the Lithium Shorai LFX18A1-BS12 Battery (about $170). See comparo table below.
Here's what came in the Tusk box:
BASIC PROS AND CONS (LITHIUM BATTERIES)
Commonly reported pros and cons of lithium batteries based on Internet research were as follows:
- PROS: (i) smaller, (ii) lighter (iii) less maintenance, (iv) higher CCA, (v) longer lives (claimed) and (vi) no orientation ("this side up") issues.
- CONS: (i) more expensive, (ii) not suited for cold climates, (iii) high voltage dissipation, (iv) require a "lithium-specific" charger and (v) battery compartment fitment challenges.
One of the better research resources covering Lithium Batteries was an article on Motorcycle.com called Lithium Motorcycle Batteries: Myths vs Realities -- Updated. It's linked to the title, have a read.
Yes, I'm a lithium neophyte, but my thoughts on a couple of the items:
I believe that the "less maintenance" pro is based on a premise that lead acid level monitoring is a great deal of maintenance, which, while important, is really not. However, such maintenance isn't required for "sealed" lead acid batteries or gel-electrolyte batteries. In addition, initial indications are that my new Tusk Lithium is going to require high-maintenance regarding maintaining a constant full-charge condition to avoid damage and assure a long, healthy life. I had to buy a lithium-specific charger, as discussed below, to stay on my Tusk Battery's maintenance.
My YouTube Channel has a video, Tusk Lithium Pro for DR650, that shows fitment of the TLFP-9R into the DR650 battery compartment. I consider the fitment process a "minor" challenge, as it required materials other than those included in the package and a considerable amount of trial and error putting a secure configuration. Folks with less experience dealing with such challenges are probably going to be put off. As discussed in my analysis of customer reviews below, the Tusk Battery received some low ratings due to fitment issues.
ONWARD .....
FIVE POUNDS LIGHTER THAN OE YAUSA!
Here is a comparison of dimensions and specifications of the three 12 Volt batteries that I considered.
Tusk claims a life of 5-8 years for the TLFP-9R. The Instructions note that the battery's lifespan will be shortened if "stored" in high temperatures (over 104F) or humid environments for long periods (over 30 days). Living in West Central Florida, I've come to believe this to be the case for all types of batteries. I generally replace all batteries every three years whether they're bad or not. For those living in cooler climates, the Instructions indicate that the Tusk Battery will not fully function in temperatures below 32F.
CRANKING AMPS AND AMP HOURS
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) is generally a concept in cranking-type batteries. That is, batteries that start motors and are subject to a continuous charge off an alternator, generator or stator (e.g. batteries in cars and motorcycles). Amp Hours (ah) is generally a concept in deep-cycle batteries. That is, batteries that are designed to run electric motors and electric equipment without being subject to continuous charge (e.g. electric golf carts, boat trolling motors). Obviously, CCA are very important to our motorcycles. The higher the CCA, the faster and stronger the battery kicks over the starter motor. However, once started, a motorcycle battery is then tasked with supplying current to electrical components and accessories (e.g. lights, meters, heated gear, etc.). ah ratings are a measure of how many amps of draw the battery can support in an hour to run all those accessories without the current supply from the stator.
If a battery's ah rating is so low that it cannot keep up with the electrical requirements of the motorcycle (e.g. lights, meter, etc.), installed accessories (e.g. accessory lights), and the rider (e.g. heated gear, communication equipment, etc.), even under the constant supply of current from the stator, all those current demanding components and accessories are going to suck the battery dry and those high CCA ain't gonna get the bike started.
Bottom line, ah is important...
...and the Tusk comes in short with only 3 Amp Hours. Based on my research, 3ah is near the bottom of the reasonable range for motorcycle batteries based on a number of resources. One in particular, Motorcycle Brave, sets that range at 2.5ah to 32ah.
While I would naturally prefer higher ah, I can manage with the 3ah because I simply don't run a lot of non-standard, amp-consuming equipment. In addition, I changed my H4 headlight to a low-draw (and brighter) LED. Why go with the Tusk, though? Well, its was an inexpensive entry by a well-known brand for my entry into Lithium batteries.
As a side note, another option for dealing with high-draw electrical motorcycle accessories may be upgrading the stator. The stock stator on the DR650 is rated 200 watts and there are kits that will add another 50 or so watts. That would be a nice upgrade.
BCM VERSUS PCB
Battery Management System (BCM) and Protection Circuit Board (PCB, aka Protection Circuit Module (PBM)) both relate to electronic battery management and protections, and seem to be a fairly significant elements of a lithium battery. Lithium batteries do not necessarily have both, some have neither. Based upon article after article, recommendations are to run from a lithium battery that has neither.
The Tusk TLFP-9R has a PCB.
The next two relevant questions are (1) which is better? and (2) which is needed? As it relates to the first question, there seems to be wide expert concurrence that the BCM is superior to the PCB. However, all discussions lead to the question of what is really, really necessary and those questions seem to be answered on an application by application basis. Here's a helpful table that shows the protections by type:
My simple read of most of this material is that BCM is most relevant when the lithium battery is feeding data to other sources for review or management; i.e. more complicated applications. PCB/PCM seems to deal with the protections that I would consider necessary for the simple electronic needs of my Suzuki DR650. However, I remind you that I'm no expert. Your interpretations of the online research material may differ.
WARRANTY
The Tusk Battery is Warranted for 2 Years, pro-rated. Shorai batteries are warranted for 5 years, pro-rated. Yuasa batteries are warranted for 6 months with full replacement.
CHARGING AND CHARGE MAINTENANCE
My Tusk TLFP-9R arrived with a charge of 12.99 Volts. The directions provide that the battery be charged if received with a voltage of under 13.0 Volts; close enough I suppose. Further, the directions suggest use of a Lithium-Battery-Specific Charger.
See the installation video link below for installation in my 2012 Suzuki DR650.
CUSTOMER RATINGS
On the date of purchase, the TLFP-9R is rated 4.6/5.0 based on 99 reviews on the RMATV webpage.
I take comments and rating seriously. Of the four single-star ratings, 3 related to failure within a short period and 1 related to fitment. Of two double-star ratings, both related to failure within a short period. Of five triple-star ratings, 2 related to fitment, 2 related to low cranking power, and 1 related to low cranking power in cold temperatures, which the Instructions warn might occur.
It should be noted that the OE Yuasa Sealed Lead-Acid Battery was rated 4.6/5.0 based on 220 reviews. The pricy Shorai Lithium Battery was rated 4.7/5.0 on 247 reviews. Lastly, the Tusk TLFP-9R is available for sale on Amazon, but there were very few ratings on the date of my purchase.
INSTALLATION
As noted, the Tusk Battery is significantly smaller than the battery compartment. To compensate, the battery comes with seven (7) foam spacers of the following number and sizes:
- (3) 5-7/8" x 4-3/16" x 5/16"
- (2) 5-1/4", 2-1/2" x 5/16"
- (2) 4-3/16" x 2-1/2" x 5/16"
- Foam material is relatively firm, minimizing risk of deterioration, but my intention is to check it regularly given our climate here in West-Central Florida.
I have completed a video for the Tusk Lithium Pro that includes, in addition to much of the contents of this blog post, its installation in my 2012 Suzuki DR650. In short, I got the Tusk Battery securely installed, but needed to augment the foam spacers that came with the battery with other material that I had on hand.
Here's the video:
I currently have very little time with the Tusk, but will update for performance observations.
UPDATE:
Mid-September 2022, 8 Months in: I have not encountered significant dissipation in voltage when untended. Indications were that the voltage would dissipate 3-4 volts per month. This is not my experience.
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